- Saabklubben

juni 20, 2025 kl. 14:56 #522122

Vill du kolla att pumpen är OK sätter du en sladdstump mellan säkring 14 (pumpen) och 22 (ständig 12V). Då ska det surra under bagagerumsgolvet. För att se att pumpen verkligen trycker kan man efter att ovanstående tjuvkoppling tagits bort lossa lite på banjoskruven på spridarröret, det ska komma bensin där. För mig har det varit pumpen 4 gånger, DI en gång. Det är lite meck att få in ny pump i armaturen men det går. Notera att den ska vridas med flottören till höger sida, finns märke på tanken och armaturen.

Jag hittade för många år sen en lista på nätet, det står 2014 på textfilen som jag sparat:

Originally Posted by Ari from saabnet View Post
I pulled this together from the Trionic manual. This would be good for ’94-’98. Please note, I haven’t verified this completely myself, and as I did it last night, there may be some errors. Corrections gratefully accepted!

Engine fails to start – BUT it does turn over
Step 1 – Check fuses:
Fuse 23 – ECUsupply, +30 circuit (always powered)
Fuse 13 – ECU supply, +15 circuit (only when key ON)
Fuse 14 – fuel pump relay supply to fuel pump.
Replace any blown fuses and go to step 2
(Note – 30 and 15 don’t mean 30 and 15 volts – that is just the SAE accepted name for unswitched and switched power – it should be around battery voltage when on).

Step 2 -Check the CHECK ENGINE light.
Ignition ON.
Check the fuel level
Does the CHECK ENGINE light illuminate and stay ON?
YES – Control module is activated
NO – check the +15 supply to the control module
NO – the CHECK ENGINE light shines weakly or flickers. Check the +30 supply or ground connection. May also hear a buzzing sound from main and fuel pump relays, and tach needle moves.

Step 3 –Check the main relay-
Ignition OFF
Pop connector off DI cassette – connect a test lamp between pins 10 gray/red and 6 black of the cable side of the connector.
Remove fuse 23 for 5 seconds (or more), then re-insert.
Ignition ON – the test lamp should light up for about 6 seconds and then go out.
Does it light up?
YES – Main relay is OK.
NO – Go to TEST 4(not Step 4) -Main relay check

Step 4 – Crankshaft Position Sensor test.
From Step 3, Turn the key to START (from ON) to run the starter motor after the test lamp has gone out. It should light up again.
Does it light up?
YES – Crankshaft position sensor is OK.
NO – A problem with the Crankshaft sensor or connection to the control module.

Step 5 – Check the fuel pump relay.
Ignition OFF
Remove fuse 23 for 5 seconds, then re-insert.
Ignition ON –listen for the fuel pump to run. It should run for about 2 seconds then stop.
Does the fuel pump run?
YES – fuel pump and relay are OK (Pump may have low pressure, but at least it’s trying)
NO – Go to Tests 1 and 2 – Fuel Pump/Relay check

Step 6 – Injector wiring check
Ignition OFF
Pop a connector off a fuel injector.
Connect a test lamp between pin 1 of the connector and ground
Remove fuse 23 for 5 seconds, then re-insert.
Ignition ON – the test lamp should light up for about 6 seconds and then go out.
Did the light come on?
YES – Main relay is still OK, and wiring to injectors is OK.
NO – check the wiring from the control module to the injectors.

Step 7 – DI check
Ignition OFF
Remove the DI, leave the cable connected.
Put 4 spark plugs into the boots, and connect up a ground to each one. IMPORTANT – there MUST be a spark plug in each position, and each one MUST be grounded. Otherwise, the DI may be damaged.
Remove fuse 23 for 5 seconds, then re-insert.
Ignition ON – the plugs should spark
Do they spark?
YES – DI is OK
NO – DI is probably bad.

Test 1 -Fuel Pump testing-
Jumper fuse 14 to fuse 22.
Does the fuel pump run?
No – check the wiring at the fuel pump, but chances are the fuel pump is bad.
YES – fuel pump is OK – Go to Test 2.

Test 2 -Fuel Pump relay Part 1
Ignition OFF
Connect a voltmeter between ground and fuse 14.
Remove fuse 23 for 5 seconds, then re-insert.
Ignition ON –The voltage should jump up for a couple of seconds, then drop back down.
What voltage did you see?
0 volts – Fuel pump relay may be dead. Go to Test 3
12 volts – There’s a problem with the fuel pump
Less than 10 volts, but more than 0 – dirty fuel pump relay contacts.

Test 3 – Fuel Pump relay/Anti-Theft
Note – this is for US anti-theft systems.
Ignition OFF
Remove the fuel pump relay. Connect a voltmeter from pin 86 to ground.
Ignition ON.
What voltage did you see?
12 volts – Anti-theft is OK, relay is bad
0 volts – Anti-theft module is keeping the fuel pump off.
Go to Anti-theft box on the right hand side of the passenger compartment, by the knee bolster. Make sure the contacts are OK. Jumper pins 9 to 21. Repeat Test 4 – if the fuel pump runs, the problem is the anti-theft module.

Test 4 -Main Relay Check-
Remove main relay.
Jumper from pins 30 to 87 on socket.
Does the Idle Air control valve click?
YES – main relay is bad. Replace or try cleaning contacts.
NO – Check wiring from pin 30 to battery +, and from 87 on out.

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cranks but no start on a 94+ 9000 is almost always a fuel pump or a DI cassette. Not to say it cant be something else but here’s an easy way to check em both without tech 2. After some cranking get a 17mm wrench and crack the banjo bolt on the injector rail loose. You should have fuel spray out. If not go back to the fuel pump and turn on the key. you should see 12 volts for one second. while cranking you should see 7-11 volts…if you have the voltage but no fuel at the rail you need a fuel pump. To test the DI cassette Take it out, remove the spark plugs and put them in the DIC holes with the DIC upside down on the engine. you will then need to run wires from a good ground to the threads of all the plugs. NOT the tip of the plugs, the THREADS. Crank away and you should see the plugs fire.