Saab 96 – 73 (Greenish)

Forum Övrigt Projekt / Min bil Saab 96 – 73 (Greenish)

  • Detta ämne har 16 svar, 5 deltagare, och uppdaterades senast 2013-10-24 11:37 av .
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  • #7836
    gmc
    Deltagare

    I am not very good at starting project threads, didn’t do one for the 71, started one for the ”Barn Find”, but that went on to a better home (look at Barn Find part II). Now that there is a new 96 in the house I thought I would get this one started and hopefully keep it up to date.

    The new car is a Veronagrön (Gn8H) 1973 Saab 96 assembled in Finland, 51000km on the clock so I am assuming it is actually 151000km. Very little rust on the car and it is on the road with, hopefully, few problems.



    I think the biggest visual thing when you look at the car is the different shades of Veronagrön, but as Gn8H and Gn9H were available the same year it is possible previous owners have used both at different times to cover up repair work and maybe doors and fenders have come from different cars as well. Still, a good solid base to work with.


    The engine room is clean, a bit of work to do but I haven’t had time to make a list or look into the engine properly.


    The rear shock absorber mounts are rust free, which is a relief compared to my brown and black 71.


    The interior is in good condition and complete.

    Now to find the time to go through the car from front to back and get things sorted out before I retire the 1971 96, which I am hoping will find a new home were it can be restored.

    #57969
    oskarforsberg
    Deltagare

    Nice car! I’ll keep an eye on this thread!

    99 -77 luftfjädring och förgasare
    900i 8v -88 finbil
    9000 2.0t -98 trimmad bruksbil

    #56197
    gmc
    Deltagare

    Oskar: Thanks.

    After looking at the car I decided to go through the engine, check the timing and Co2 levels. That was fun, timing was off by quiet a bit, but easy to sort out, then the Co2 levels were 24%, a little high I think. After a little while I got it down to 2% which will do for now.

    While adjusting things I had the air filter off and noticed that the breather pipe from the tappet cover to the carb was loose.


    Unfortunately it is the fitting on the carb that has broken off and it seems someone has blocked the opening with rubber.


    I have a funny feeling it is not going to be easy to get a replacement part for that, hopefully I will find someone with one lying around.

    Another thing I found when getting the car warmed up for the Co2 test was it suddenly started dripping petrol onto the floor at the front left of the engine, right where the fuel pump is. I turned the engine off and crawled under to have a look and couldn’t find out where it was coming from, the pump was a bit wet with petrol but not much. When I started the engine again, nothing dripped out. I suppose I will just have to keep an eye on it to see if it leaks petrol again. I checked all the hoses and they are tight and dry. The only thing I suspect is the fuel pump but don’t want to replace it if I don’t have too. Time will tell.

    I am also starting to come up with a list of things that will need to be done and I want to do.

    Want to do: Replace the exhaust with a sports exhaust, fit a sport & rally steering wheel, fit the sport & rally seat covers from my 71′ 96, hot spark ignition.

    Have to do: Replace the fan bearing, radiator, vacuum plate on the carb, new air filter housing. I am sure the list will grow the more time I spend with the car.

    We shall see what gets done first.

    #58505
    Per-Erik
    Deltagare

    Cool car Gary, my first ever car was a verona 73 🙂 – I do have the plate you need under the carb – could you measure the c/c distance between the two bolts holding it in place, and then I can send it to you…

    #58522
    gmc
    Deltagare

    Per-Erik: Thanks, do appreciate your help. Without taking the carb off I have been able to ”measure” the cc and it is 60mm, give or take a mm.

    Not much has happened work wise on the car. I changed the drivers side mirror for a better one.

    And changed the steering wheel with the one from my old Saab.

    Everything was fine with the wheel, fitted properly, horn worked. Then the next day I had to go out and when reversing the car out of the drive way the horn went off each time the steering wheel turned 90 degrees. I had no choice but to drive the car, not a problem on a normal road, but each time you turned off a road, and especially when you tried to park, the horn went off. I have looked at everything and can’t seem to find out where the wheel is shorting to earth when it is rotated, so the old wheel is back on again till I can sort that out.

    One other thing that came up while driving is a stutter, just now and then but at all different driving conditions, I have experienced this once before and it turned out to be a failing fuel pump, which I found out when I broke down 10km south of Trondheim on a trip north. So rather than wait for this one to fail, if that is what the problem is, a new one is being ordered.

    Must find a free day when I can get stuck in and get some of the major jobs done so that I can use the car to prepare for the next Scatter Rally.

    #58991
    gmc
    Deltagare

    Another update. Still haven’t been able to get the aftermarket steering wheel to work on the car but I have found that there is a difference between the 71 and 73 steering column. If you look at the distance between the washer arm and the wheel you will see it is much bigger on the 71, will spend a little more time to see if this is what is causing it to short out.



    It helps having the two cars in the driveway together sometimes.


    Especially when you can have the bonet open on each and check from one to the other.


    I did get a little work done, I took the seat covers off and I was surprised at how good the seats are.


    Still, I fitted the S&R seat covers, much more comfortable driving with them on.


    I also did a quick fix on the strange green paint at the windscreen, it was annoying me looking at it.


    Not perfect, but definitely an improvement.


    I finally opened the box for the new sports exhaust, bought it a few years ago and never got to use it, now that I have checked through the box it will be one of the first ”big” things to be fitted to the car.


    And on a more practical level I fitted a new Hotspark ignition to the car, makes a world of difference and so easy to install.


    As there was no interest in the 71 I have decided to strip the car for parts, there are a number of things that will go from the 71 over onto the 73, like the extra lights and tow bar, plus a number of other bits and pieces. Am also waiting for a number of new parts to arrive so that I can tackle the major problems with the engine, hopefully they arrive next week.

    #58994
    oskarforsberg
    Deltagare

    Hi Gary! Nice to follow your work. I’ve got two questions. About the S&R seat covers, where can I find them to my car, I tried googling it up but without luck. And the hotspark ignition, is that some kind of electronic ignition similar to Ignitor. Have you tried Ignitor and know some pros and cons?
    /Oskar

    99 -77 luftfjädring och förgasare
    900i 8v -88 finbil
    9000 2.0t -98 trimmad bruksbil

    #57186
    gmc
    Deltagare

    Oskar: Thanks. As for the S&R covers, I bought them second hand from a club member about 5 years ago, they are no longer available. But I would recommend putting out a request on the forum, you never know, someone might have a set sitting in their garage they don’t need.

    I can’t tell you much about the Hotspark other than you replace the points and condensor with the Hotspark and you never have to set the gap again, makes it perfect for setting the timing. I know they use both Hotspark and Ignitor for the rally/race cars and you will find people have their favorite. I heard about Hotspark from this forum and had one installed in my old car for nearly 5 years without any problems, I would recommend the Hotspark, hence fitting one to my new car as well.

    The following is a link to the one for the Saab V4’s:
    http://www.hot-spark.eu/webshop/index.php?page=details&prod=3

    Now to take Greenish out for a drive and do a final test drive through next weeks Saab Hallandia rally.

    #59033
    hans h
    Deltagare

    @GMC wrote:

    I think the biggest visual thing when you look at the car is the different shades of Veronagrön, but as Gn8H and Gn9H were available the same year it is possible previous owners have used both at different times to cover up repair work and maybe doors and fenders have come from different cars as well. Still, a good solid base to work with.

    My second car was a Veronagrön 1973 96. And, like yours, it too had an odd mixture of GN8 and GN9.
    It is so nice to see such a car again. 🙂

    /Hans

    #59200
    gmc
    Deltagare

    Hans: Glad it brings back memories, hopefully good ones. Not sure what I will do with all the different colours but other than a complete respray I don’t think there is much I can do. Maybe a good polish and leave it as it is would be best.

    Never did get out of the driveway to do a final test of the rally, at least not on the day I wanted. I reversed the car out of the garage and when I went to close the doors I noticed drops on the garage floor following the car and a large pool under the car in the driveway, petrol, so back in the garage again and removed the fuel pump.


    The gasket that goes by the filter was completely dried out and half missing. As I needed the car in a hurry to get the rally finished I had to order a new pump, next day delivery from Mekonomen does help, but does anyone know where I can get the gasket from so that I can fix this fuel pump and keep it as a spare.


    Once fitted the car went much better. So I think some of the running issues with the car were due to a failing fuel pump.

    I also managed to fit the metal air filter from the 71, in my opinion much better than the plastic one that is fitted to the 73, which was also cracked.


    At the rally this weekend I got a replacement spacer plate for the carb, big thanks to Per-Erik, now I have all the parts to carry out the refurbishment of the carb.


    Next job on the list, fit a new wheel bearing to the rear right wheel, after I pick up some wheel bearing grease, and while the rear wheel is off I will remove the old exhaust and fit the sports exhaust. So hopefully a few more photographs in the next couple of days and a better running car out on the road.

    #59235
    hans h
    Deltagare

    @GMC wrote:

    Hans: Glad it brings back memories, hopefully good ones.

    Thank you. Yes very good ones.
    My car had a 1700cc engine and was quite fast (for a V4). A joy to own.
    Good luck with your car.

    #59240
    gmc
    Deltagare

    Hans: Must have been nice with the 1700 engine, something to think of for the future.

    I am starting to look into replacing all the water and vacum hoses on the engine and thought I would take the steel water pipes from my 71, clean them up and paint them so they are ready when I start the work. Only problem is, what type of paint should I use on the steel water pipes when they have been cleaned. Also, what is the best paint to use on the tapet covers. Any help would be appreciated.

    #59317
    Per-Erik
    Deltagare

    I would use the ”motorfärg” that they have at mekonomen and ad-center. Comes in a variety of colors, and holds up to the heat and other things very well…

    #59519
    gmc
    Deltagare

    Per-Erik: Thanks for the tip, will pick a can up this weekend and get started on preparing the water pipes.

    Managed to get a little more done on the car, replaced the rear right wheel bearings, took two attempts, the first failed as the circlip pliers I had were cheap and broke trying to get the clip out, now I have a better quality pair of circlip pliers and it was so easy to get the clip out. For those attempting to replace wheel bearings I would recommend following the steps as listed in the Saab Workshop manual, not the Haynes manual which is very vague and not helpful.

    Next job on the list was to remove the old exhaust, that took a bit of fiddling but it came off. Getting the new Simons Sports Exhaust on was a bit of a handful on my own but it all went on when it came to putting the clamps on I found a problem. The system was supplied with all mounting fittings, but there were 3 different exhaust clips, two different size u-clamps and a single c-clamp. I presumed the c-clamp went onto the header, right side of photo.


    The problem with the u-clamps are, two 48mm and two 54mm, the 54mm fits perfectly, no way you can fit the 48mm on the exhaust. So now I have half the exhaust fitted and no car to go and fetch more exhaust clamps, frustrating. Still, will be able to pick them up on Saturday and then the job can be finished. Really looking forward to driving the car with the new exhaust system fitted, will be interesting to see if there is any difference, other than sound.

    In relation to exhausts, what is the best clamps to use, u-clamps or c-clamps?

    #60355
    gmc
    Deltagare

    Still not very good at keeping this up to date. Have done a few bits and pieces to the car. As I am still trying to sort out the shuddering when pulling away or slowing down with the gears it was suggested that I check the mounting bolt at the rear of the gearbox. When I lifted the carpet up this is what I found.


    After checking the gearbox bolt, which was tight, I then scraped away the rust, applied rust eater, then primer and finally a coat of paint. Thankfully it was just surface rust but good to know that it is now taken care off.

    The next job on the list was to fit the tow bar from my old 71′. Getting it off the old car was easy, but fitting the bracket at the back, especially the bolts to the bumper, that took a lot of pulling and pushing to get it lined up. But it went in.


    The one part that was missing from the old installation was the angle iron going across the front of the boot, unfortunately I wasn’t able to find out what size this was originally but it was suggested to use 40×40, which I managed to get hold of, only problem was it wouldn’t fit in the right way round without interferring with the fuel tank straps, so I put it in back to front.


    The rest of the installation went without a hitch, all wiring was connected up as per the old car and the finished result wasn’t too shabby.




    Once it was tightened up properly the car was booked in for besiktning and registering of the tow bar, the only problem I faced was the Co2 level was too high but they let me adjust it while running the test and the car went through with blank papers, complements on the condition of the car, and with a registered tow bar fitted. A relief.

    Next on the list, when I was washing the car before besiktning I noticed some paint chips coming off around the front right indicator, clear metal underneath so now to take off the indicators and fix it up before the rust settles in. Have to remember to spray new rust protection under the rear of the car where the tow bar is fitted. Then it is time to strip and rebiuld the carb, suspect it is blocked or just very dirty, should be an interesting project.

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