Clutch/gearbox problem
- Detta ämne har 22 svar, 6 deltagare, och uppdaterades senast 2014-09-17 21:30 av
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When I purchased my Sonett III it was impossible to change gear without hearing the gears creak. So engine out, the fork was warn and bent. New clutch cilinder etc. Now everything is back in place, but I still have the problem and cannot change gears, especially reverse.
Anyone an idea where to look now? It’s not driveable and that’s a pity.Thanks in advance.
Hello Thomas,
I have had similar problems to get the reverse gear in place on two of my Sonett III:s. In order to remede this problem you can try to adjust the position of the gear-shifter support (console), which is fixed with 4 screws against the floor pan. By mowing the console slightly forward you will gain more distance for the reverse gear to fall in right place.Let us know whether this solved your problem.
With best Sonett regards,
LennartLennart,
Thank you for your suggestion, I will give it a try and let you know.
Regards, Pieter
No real improvement 😥
If the engine is not running I can use all gears with no problem, with running engine especially reverse and first gear are troublesome. So I think the problem lies in the clutch. The standard play for the clutch is 4 mm. Could increasing the play worth a try?Did you check the clutch when you had the engine out?
Could be problems with the clutch itself (worn, to thin), the automat / pressure-plate (sometimes the 3 arms are getting soft and bend during operation), the ”fork” on the gearbox which pushes the pressure plate via the clutch-bearing (fork worn out, bent), air in the hydraulik system or just worn out cylinder / cylinder-seals…
To me it sounds as if your clutch does not separate properly.
To me it sounds as if your clutch does not separate properly
I agree with you.
The clutch is as new, the slave clutch cilinder renewed, the main clutch cilinder new and the fork was bent but repaired. So all parts are new or renewed.
what about the crankshaft spigot bush?
Also as new. I’ll try to do some test driving this weekend.
Did some test driving. It’s only the reverse gear that is giving problems. So you would think it’s not the clutch.
Its common that the clutch pressure plate is faulty. One of the three arms got a weaker spring and that is what cause the problem.
I’m afraid is is the clutch (plate) indeed. So engine out again 🙁
no it is not the springs that caused that particular problem……..Sachs made a batch of faulty plates a few years back and it was some hardening issues with the levers that caused problems. (as I have been told)
Should be possible to measure if bolted in place. If you remove the outer part and have all three levers free they must and should have exactly the same distance to the flywheel. Otherwise it will not work very good.Should be possible to measure if bolted in place. If you remove the outer part and have all three levers free they must and should have exactly the same distance to the flywheel.
Can you please explain how to do that?
just bolt everything to the flywheel as normal , remove the outer ring on the pressureplate by gently ease off the springs. You then have the three levers ”free”. Then adapt some creativity and measure the distance from each lever down to the flywheel. They must have the same measurement, otherwise the plate will release the clutch disc uneven and then dont disengage fully.
When you do this operation it is mandatory to have a clutch disc which is 100%flat. Most preferable is a grinded steel disc insted of the clutchdisc but that is stage number two ……..On similar larger clutches of the same type all three levers have adjustment screws for this and allows each lever to be adjusted exactly but not on these unfortunately.
Thanks for the explanation. Here are some pics form the clutch when is was out:
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